Technical and Stylistic Changes in Jewelry from the Time of Theophilus to the Time of Cellini

My thesis consists of research from an art historical perspective concerning a number of changes in the design, style, and fabrication of jewelry from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance and the influences that brought about those changes. I have found that social political, geographical, technological, and philosophical shifts in the Renaissance all wielded significant impact on the changes in design and style of jewelry. I have approached the subject by studying jewelry as an art form equal to other art forms such painting and sculpting, rather than as a decorative art or craft. By focusing on one prominent goldsmith from each period, Theophilus Presbyter (1070-1125) from the medieval age and Benvenuto Cellini (1500-1571) from the Renaissance, I compare and contrast the workshops, materials, techniques, and tools used in the two different periods. I gathered data and information from numerous secondary sources as well as several primary sources, including the treatises of Theophilus and Cellini. Other primary sources include surviving jewelry pieces, paintings, and engravings that depict such metalwork. Through examining these sources as well as secondary literature, I found that the changes in design and style of jewelry from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance were not due simple shift in taste or ‘‘fashion.” Rather, these changes were the result of broader cultural movements that were much deeper in importance. For example, the influx of wealth among courtly patrons sparked the growing desire for ostentatious objects including jewelry. The technological advancements in machinery resulted in widespread reproduction of designs and faster means of jewelry production. The discovery of geographical locations provided new sources of raw materials. Philosophical curiosity of as to a new classical antiquity embodied the humanistic themes of the Renaissance and was reflected in jewelry designs. Also, artistic innovations such as perspective transformed the subjects depicted in jewelry. All of these features instigated the gradual process of the technical and stylistic changes in jewelry from the time of Theophilus to the time of Cellini