Most of the instruments I heard were percussive. There were the ordinary tomtom and drum, and some extraordinary drums carved for juju ceremonial. There were logs of wood hollowed out through a slot, with one “cheek” thinner than the other and thus giving a higher note when struck. Then there was the Ilu or dundun drum. The wooden part is shaped like an hour glass; there is a skin head at each end, the skins being joined together all round by thonging. You hold it under your left arm and strike the upper head with a drumstick curved like a crane’s bill; by squeezing and relaxing the arm pressure on the thongs, you can raise or lower the pitch of the note. The result is an intriguing “pop pop pop” running with great mobility up and down over...