Biotechnology in textile finishing processes. Part 3: Enzymatic textile finishing of fibres

Članek obravnava današnjo uporabo encimov v industrijskih procesih tekstilnega plemenitenja ter ob njihovem intenzivnem znanstvenem razvoju kompleksno opozarja na obstoječe aplikativne probleme in cilje v prihodnje. Po razloženi strukturno - funkcionalni aktivnosti encimov, njihovem tehnološkem postopku pridobivanja in vlogi genetskega inženiringa so podane ekološke in ekonomske prednosti njihove industrijske uporabe. Sledi podrobnejši opis možnosti uporabe encimov v posameznih postopkih tekstilnega plemenitenja in njihov znanstveni razvoj. Pregled je usmerjen tako na posamezne postopke v obdelavi naravnih vlaken kot tudi na prve poizkuse obdelave sintetičnih vlaken. Opisani so obstoječi problemi klasičnih plemenitilnih postopkov, od predobdelave, beljenja in barvanja do plemenitenja/apretiranja, ter predstavljene možnosti za vključitev encimskih postopkov. Podrobneje so opisana nova spoznanja na posameznih vlaknih in fazah encimskega plemenitenjaposeben poudarek je na razvoju novih encimov, primernih za njihovo obdelavo, novih encimskih postopkih, njihovih prednostih in slabostih, predvsem poškodbe vlaken in življenjska doba oz. ostala aktivnost encimov na tkanini. Podrobneje so opisani alternativni tehnološki postopki za doseganje posebnih končnih učinkov na površini tkanine. Po krajšem opisu razvoja novih, izjemno stabilnih encimov in njihovih prednostih je opozorjeno na obetavno uporabo biotehnologije v tekstilno obdelovalnih postopkih in perspektivo njihovega razvoja v prihodnje.The authors investigate today\u27s use of enzymes in industrial textile finishing processes and in view of their intense scientific development point to the existing application problems and objectives. The explained structural - functional activity of enzymes, the technological process of their obtaining and the genetic engineering are followed by ecological and economical benefits of their industrial usage and then by a detailed description of possibilities of using enzymes in particular processes of textile finishing and their scientific development. The review includes individual procedures of natural fibres treatment and the first trials of synthetic fibres treatment. The existing problems of standard finishing processes, from pretreatment, bleaching and dyeing to finishing and the possibilities for incorporating enzymatic processes are presented. New achievements regarding individual fibres and enzymatic processes phases are described in detaila special emphasis is put on development of new enzymes, new enzymatic processes, their advantages and disadvantages, and above all on damages of fibres and on the life time of enzymes, i. e. their remaining activity on fabric. Alternative technological processes for achieving special final effects on a fabric surface are described in detail. After a short description of development of new extremely stable enzymes and their advantages the authors point to promising usage of biotechnology in textile processing processes and to the prospect of their future development