AMAZON RAINFOREST COSMETICS: CHEMICAL APPROACH FOR QUALITY CONTROL

The market for natural cosmetics featuring ingredients derived from Amazon natural resources is growing worldwide. However, there is neither enough scientific basis nor quality control of these ingredients. This paper is an account of the chemical constituents and their biological activities of fourteen Amazonian species used in cosmetic industry, including açaí (Euterpe oleracea), andiroba (Carapa guianensis), bacuri (Platonia insignis), Brazil nut (Bertholletia excelsa), buriti (Mauritia vinifera or M. flexuosa), cumaru (Dipteryx odorata), cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum), guarana (Paullinia cupana), mulateiro (Calycophyllum spruceanum), murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru), patawa (Oenocarpus bataua or Jessenia bataua), pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba), rosewood (Aniba rosaeodora), and ucuuba (Virola sebifera). Based on the reviewed articles, we selected chemical markers for the quality control purpose and evaluated analytical methods. Even though chromatographic and spectroscopic methods are major analytical techniques in the studies of these species, molecular approaches will also be important as used in food and medicine traceability. Only a little phytochemical study is available about most of the Amazonian species and some species such as açaí and andiroba have many reports on chemical constituents, but studies on biological activities of isolated compounds and sampling with geographical variation are limited