AN INVESTIGATION OF FASHION DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING OF LADIES' JACKETS WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLEEVES

The patterns of raglan, semi raglan, kimono, and dropped shoulder sleeves are made on one and the same constructional bases. In the constructional base the front and back in the underarm there are parts which have to be set to the both - the bodice and the sleeve. For the front and the back that is possible if the sleeve and a part of the bodice are separated by a design constructional seam. The type and design of the sleeve depends by the directions of the design constructional seam. If the seam joins the underarm and the neckline, or area around the neckline the type of sleeve is raglan. If the seam connects the underarm and the shoulder the type of sleeve is semi raglan. The type of the sleeve is kimono if the design constructional seam divides the bodice or the sleeve. In the dropped shoulder sleeve design constructional seam is located under the shoulder. The use of the main design principles, the possibilities for combinations between the four types of sleeves and the design with application of 3D elements are investigated. Raglan, semi raglan, kimono and dropped shoulder sleeves can be combined each other. In combined sleeves only one of seams which define the types of the sleeves is with decorative constructional function. The other ones have only decorative function. Design constructional seams which define the types of the sleeves can be used as contours of location or fixation of all types of 3D elements: pleats, goffers, flounces, tucks gathers, and draperies. The results of the investigation of application of the main design principles, combinations between different types of sleeves and possibility for the use of 3D elements facilitate the process of fashion design and pattern making and gives opportunity for variety of models