Formulation and quality evaluation of regenerative lipstick

Aim of the thesis: select and optimize lipstick composition and evaluate its quality parameters. Thesis objectives: 1) Collect scientific literature about the Dog Rose (Rosa canina L.) seed oil and its composition, the structure of the lips and their wounds, lipsticks technological characteristics, quality requirements and quality evaluation methods; 2) Select the optimal regenerating lipstick composition and technology; 3) Evaluate quality of the lipstick, determine their melting point, pH value, texture and stability studies; 4) Evaluate antioxidant activity of rosehip seed oil and produced lipsticks. Methods: lipsticks were made by casting method, composition was optimized by Design-Expert 6.0 program and organoleptic testing. Free DPPH radical is used in spectroscopy method to evaluate oil antioxidative activity. Lipsticks’ quality was evaluated by determining pH value, texture, melting point and stability testing. Results: Ingredients like carnauba wax, cocoa butter, castor oil, rosehip seed oil, vitamin E, mint and grapefruit essential oil were used in making lipstick. It was noticed, that lipsticks’ texture is heterogenous, so a part of carnauba wax was replaced by beeswax. After selecting ranges of hardness and melting point, Design-Expert 6.0 program selected 13 new compositions. Lipsticks with mint and grapefruit essential oils were made, and organoleptic testing was made. Results were summarized and three optimal compositions were obtained. These lipsticks were used in stability testing, assessing lipsticks’ texture, pH value and antioxidant activity. Conclusions: assessing lipsticks‘ quality, the melting pont (34,0 – 35,0 ºC), force of penetration (285,7 – 398,8 g/sec), pH value, which is in neutral media range (6,94-6,71), were determined. It was determined high DPPH free radical inactivation (63,6±1,1 %) of rosehip seed oil. During stability testing, it was noticed, that lipsticks get harder after 3 months. pH value changes statistically insignificant. It’s recommended to make lipsticks according 6 G composition: 5,2 % carnauba wax, 15,6 % bees wax, 38,9 % rosehip seed oil, 30,9 % cocoa butter, 7,4 % castor oil, 1,0 % vitamin E and 1,0 % grapefruit essential oil. It’s not recommended to use lipsticks more than 3 months