Bedforms and undertow in the surf zone; an analysis of the LIP 11D-data

The present report gives the results of a study on bedforms and undertow in the surf zone. It is the objective of this study to get a better insight into the physical processes in the surf zone. In this study, we make use of the data obtained during the LIP llDexperiments (Arcilla et al. [1994] and Roelvink and Reniers [1994]). We derive the characteristics of bedforms from measured profiles. We relate these bedform characteristics to the hydraulic conditions and analyse if they can be predicted with present prediction methods. Further, we develop an inverse modelling technique, which is based on the mass and momentum balance equations. With this technique we derive values of important physical parameters, like eddy viscosity, shear stresses, friction factors, bed roughness and mass flux. The derived physical parameters are compared with present methods to describe these parameters