Examination of biological activity of glycerol-hydroxypropyl-Beta-cyclodextrin extracts of winter savory (Satureja montana L.) rich in phenolic compounds for use in cosmetics and phytopharmacy

Izgledu i zdravlju ljudske kože oduvijek se obraćala velika pozornost. Oksidativni stres, upalne reakcije i kožne bolesti uzrokuju neželjene promjene na koži koje se djelomično mogu regulirati kozmetičkim pripravcima. Ipak, postojeće sastavnice kozmetičkih proizvoda i dalje nisu u mogućnosti eliminirati nedostatke u izgledu kože, pa postoji potreba za otkrivanjem novih terapijskih mogućnosti iz prirodnih izvora. Cilj rada bio je ispitati potencijalni kozmetički učinak ekstrakata primorskog vriska bogatih ukupnim polifenolima i ružmarinskom kiselinom koju su dobiveni ekstrakcijom s glicerolom i hidroksipropil-β-ciklodekstrinom . U ispitivanjima biološke aktivnosti ekstrakti su pokazali izvrsnu antioksidativnu aktivnost, ispitanu pomoću DPPH i redukcijske snage i dobro protuupalno djelovanje određeno ispitivanjem inhibicije enzima lipooksigenaze i denaturacije ovalbumina. Ispitivanje inhibitorne aktivnosti ekstrakata prema enzimima elastazi, tirozinazi i hijaluronidazi pokazalo je da ekstrakti nisu ostvarili značajan stupanj inhibicije elastaze i tirozinaze, no uspješno su inhibirali enzim hijaluronidazu. Zahvaljujući tome ekstrakti biljne vrste S. montana mogu se razmotriti kao potencijalni sastojci u budućim kozmetičkim pripravcima namijenjenima poboljšanju izgleda i zdravlja kože.Great attention has always been given to the appearance and health of human skin. Oxidative stress, inflammatory reactions and skin disorders cause adverse effects on the skin that can be partially regulated with cosmetic products. However, current components of cosmetic products are still not able to entirely eliminate skin imperfections, so there is a need for discovering new therapeutic possibilities from natural sources. The goal of this research was investigation of potential cosmetic effects of winter savory extracts, rich in total polyphenols rosmarinic acid, obtained by extraction with glycerol and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin. In biological activity tests, the extracts had excellent antioxidant activity, tested using DPPH and reducing power methods and good anti-inflammatory activity determined by inhibition of lipoxygenase enzyme and ovalbumin denaturation tests. The inhibitory activity of the extracts was tested on the enzymes elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. The extracts did not achieve a significant degree of inhibition of elastase and tyrosinase, but they successfully inhibited the enzyme hyaluronidase. Thanks to this, extracts of the plant species S. montana can be considered as potential ingredients in future cosmetic products for the appearance and health of the skin