FASHION IN SOCIALIST JUGOSLAVIA WITH REFERENCE TO ŽUŽI JELINEK'S WORK

Čovjek kad se rodi postaje dio svijeta pa tako i svijeta mode. Čim odraste postaje pristalica ili protivnik modnih trendova htio to ili ne. Jugoslavija je poslije Drugog svjetskog rata bila novoosnovana država koja je tražila svoje mjesto pod suncem na svjetskoj pozornici. Problemi poslije ratne obnove zahvatili su novonastalo jugoslavensko društvo i jugoslavensku tekstilnu i modnu industriju. Ipak, prevladala je želja za boljim i lagodnijim životom nakon rata te se polagano počinje razvijati jugoslavenska moda inspirirana trendovima zapada koje se prenosili modni časopisi. S vremenom se razvija i sama tekstilna industrija koja se uspjela izboriti za opstanak unatoč tomu što je na prvom mjestu obnove bila teška industrija. Među najpoznatijim industrijama jugoslavenskog doba bile su: Varteks, Borovo, Nada Dimić, Jugoplastika i mnoštvo drugih čiji je rad prepoznat van granica Jugoslavije što im je donijelo brojne suradnje sa svjetskim brendovima poput Adidasa i Salamandera. O uspjesima modne industrije i novih modnih trendova, jugoslavensko društvo je čitalo u raznim modnim časopisima poput Svijeta, Naša moda, Žena u borbi te prvim jugoslavenskim časopisom za mladu populaciju Tina. Preko časopisa i avanturističkih izleta u Trst u Jugoslaviji se širi jeans groznica koja s godinama postaje simbol mlade, buntovne generacije koja je svojim odjevnim kombinacijama slala poruku. Vidimo kako se s godinama jugoslavenska moda mijenjala i pratila trendove te je tako, žena koja prati modu, od žene ratnice rođene u socijalizmu, postala žena radnica koja je spremna uz posao i obitelj brinuti se o modne trendovima i savjetima koji se nameću. Jedna od najvažnijih ličnosti jugoslavenske modne scene svakako je bila Žuži Jelinek. Zagrebačka krojačica koju ni teška životna sudbina nije spriječila u ostvarenju svojih snova te se dovela do samog svjetskog vrha mode. Godinama je uspješno surađivala s prvom damom Jugoslavije, Jovankom Broz i raznim tekstilnim industrijama svoje zemlje poput tvornice Borovo i Nada Dimić. Svoje radove uspješno je prezentirala u svom krojačkom salonu u Zagrebu kao i na raznim domaćim i inozemnim modnim revijama u Americi, Aziji i svim zemljama članicama Pokreta nesvrstanih. Njezin rad prepoznali su svjetski mediji koji su često rado prenosile njezin uspjeh te je stekla nadimke balkanska Chanel i Žuži of Yugoslavia.When a person is born, he becomes a part of the world, including the world of fashion. As soon as he grows up, he becomes a supporter or an opponent of fashion trends, whether he likes it or not. After the Second World War, Yugoslavia was a newly founded country that was looking for its place under the sun on the world stage. The problems after the war reconstruction affected the newly formed Yugoslav society and the Yugoslav textile and fashion industry. However, the desire for a better and more comfortable life prevailed after the war, and Yugoslavian fashion slowly began to develop, inspired by the trends of the West, which were transmitted by fashion magazines. Over time, the textile industry itself developed, which managed to fight for survival despite the fact that the first place of reconstruction was heavy industry. Among the most famous industries of the Yugoslav era were: Varteks, Borovo, Nada Dimić, Jugoplastika and many others whose work was recognized outside the borders of Yugoslavia, which brought them numerous collaborations with world brands such as Adidas and Salamander. Yugoslavian society read about the successes of the fashion industry and new fashion trends in various fashion magazines such as Svijet, Naša moda, Žena u borbi and the first Yugoslav magazine for the young population, Tina. Through magazines and adventure trips to Trieste in Yugoslavia, jeans fever is spreading, which over the years has become a symbol of a young, rebellious generation that sent a message with its clothing combinations. We see how Yugoslav fashion has changed over the years and followed trends, and thus, a woman who follows fashion, from a warrior woman born in socialism became a working woman who is ready to take care of fashion trends and advice that are imposed along with work and family. One of the most important personalities of the Yugoslav fashion scene was certainly Žuži Jelinek. A seamstress from Zagreb who was not prevented by a difficult fate in life from realizing her dreams and brought herself to the very top of world fashion. For years, she successfully collaborated with the first lady of Yugoslavia, Jovanka Broz, and various textile industries of her country, such as the Borovo and Nada Dimić factories. She successfully presented her work in her tailoring salon in Zagreb as well as at various domestic and foreign fashion shows in America, Asia and all member countries of the Non-Aligned Movement. Her work was recognized by the world's media, which were often happy to report her success, and she earned the nicknames the Balkan Chanel and Žuži of Yugoslavia