SPH simulation of wave breaking over a barred beach and comparison with experiments

This paper presents an SPH numerical simulation of the hydrodynamics due to monochromatic waves breaking on a rigid barred beach profile. The simulation is compared with large–scale laboratory experiments, in which detailed water surface measurements were made at 22 cross-shore locations. The results include wave heights, and the phase-averaged velocity and time-mean velocities along the bar. Overall, the SPH model is able to reproduce several features of this complex flow. Information about the correct setup of an SPH simulation to accurately reproduce the physical processes involved in the wave breaking is also reported. The results show that a recirculating cell, just above the bar through, is generated because of wave breaking. The flow in this cell contributes to the growth of the bar when the bed is made up of mobile material