A Basic Study of the Sewing of Knitted Cotton Cloth

The purpose of the present study is to discuss the practical seaming conditions when making clothings of knitted cotton cloth. The experimental conditions were as follows: the author used four seaming directions such as wale (crossing), course (horizontal), bias (diagonal), and a combination of wale and bias; a combination of two Kinds of threads; a combination of three kinds of thread elasticity; three kinds of seawing machine needles; three kinds of seams; five repetitions of testing; and two hundred and seventy trials per direction. The author measured the tearing strength and elongation on the seamed. parts according to the JIS Standards by using an elongation tester. The values of seaming effects* and at-test were calculated by variance analysis on the basis of the strength of original cloth. The results show that the numder of seams had a significant effect on seaming in each direction. And few tearings were found under such a condition as five seams/cm in which the threads of cotton and nylon were used, while any thread elasticity did not necessarily have a significant effect on seamig. Such a combination of different seaming directions as wale and bias had an effect of less than seventy percent on seaming. *Seamig effects (%) = (Strength of the seaming of testing cloth / Strength of original cloth )×10