Effect of Design on Seam Opening in Skirt Lining

Four hundred and eighty straight skirts，representing 3 different fabric properties，16 different hipline circumferences and 10 different lengths， were used to investigate the relationship between garment measurements and seam opening. Two rayon taffetas and one nylon tricot were used for the linings. The hipline circumferences and lengths varied from 90 cm to 138 cm，and from 33 cm to 60 cm，respectively. While the wearer was standing， sitting，walking，bending and ascending steps with the different height，the seam appearance at side and center back was observed with a video camera recorder. With increasing hipline circumference of the skirt， the position of seam opening was concentrated in the hipline and/or hemline. To prevent the seam opening in the hip parts，the amount of hip ease was needed 7.9% for standing and walking postures and 12.5% for sitting and ascending the step postures. The range of seam opening in the bottom parts depended on the hemline circumference and length of a skirt and the height of a step. Taffeta skirts without seam opening were larger than tricot skirts at the hemline