Ukrainian embroidery in the and of the XIX – the beginning of the XX c. in the context of the aesthetic theory of William Morris

Abstract. At the end of the XX – the beginning of the XX c. the works of V. Morris and his followers formed the «Arts and Crafts» movement, which changed the attitude of the creative intelligentsia of Europe to decorative and applied arts. The influence of the ideas of this movement on the Ukrainian intelligentsia. XIX – the beginning of the XX c. and directly on the embroidery of this period requires deep research, which determines the relevance of our work. The purpose of the article is to prove the existence of a mediated embodiment of the ideas of «Arts and crafts» in Ukrainian decorative and applied arts workshops at the turn of the XIX–XX c. and their favorable role in the development of embroidery. The subject for finding specific influences of V. Morrisʼs theories on the Ukrainian art of embroidery became decorative and applied arts, where craftsmen from the people and avant-garde artists collaborated. The combination of fine art and folk embroidery became the apogee of the evolutionary path of handicrafts, thanks to which bold color solutions, unusual compositions and ornamental motifs began to be actively used. In our work, we hypothesize that the ideas of the «Arts and Crafts» movement contributed to the emergence of a unique cultural phenomenon – Ukrainian avant-garde embroidery, which was realized through the artistic cooperation of professional artists and folk craftsmen. The embodiment of such cooperation became a qualitatively new artistic level of decorative and applied arts, which equated it with easel art. We came to the conclusion that the influence of V. Morrisʼs ideas in terms of the organization of the work of these enterprises and the latest development of Ukrainian embroidery can be traced in the activities of the mentioned workshops. The results of the research will contribute to further studies in the field of decorative and applied arts of the end of the XIX – the beginning of the XX c. and will become the basis for rethinking the heritage of Ukrainian avant-garde embroidery in the context of the correlation of its development with pan-European trends