Towards a modern approach to traditional use of Helichrysum italicum in dermatological conditions: In vivo testing supercritical extract on artificially irritated skin

Ethnopharmacological relevance: Helichrysum italicum has been widely used in traditional medicine to treat allergies, colds, cough, skin, liver and gallbladder disorders, inflammation, infections, and sleeplessness. Furthermore, it possesses considerable wound healing and skin protective properties, documented by several in vivo studies performed on animals. However, there is a lack of experimental evidence supporting its potential as a topical agent tested by human clinical trials. Aim of the study: The study aimed to investigate the skin protective activity of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric, impregnated with H. italicum extract by the integrated supercritical CO2 extraction-supercritical solvent impregnation process. Materials and methods: The integrated process of supercritical CO2 extraction of H. italicum and the impregnation of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric was performed under 350 bar and 40 °C with and without the addition of ethanol as a cosolvent. Impregnated textile materials were tested in vivo for their bioactivity on irritated human skin. Randomized in vivo studies performed involved assays of both safety and efficacy of the impregnated textiles. The effects were evaluated using the in vivo non-invasive biophysical measurements of the following skin parameters: electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss, melanin index, erythema index, and skin pH. Results: Both cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric were impregnated with H. italicum extracts under supercritical conditions with considerable values of the impregnation yield (1.97%–4.25%). The addition of ethanol as a cosolvent during the process caused significant changes in the incorporated extracts’ impregnation yield and chemical profile. Both impregnated textile materials were safe, evaluated by their testing on the human skin with no cause of any irritation and redness. However, efficacy studies revealed that polypropylene non-woven fabric impregnated with H. italicum extract with ethanol as a cosolvent, possessed significantly greater potential for skin protection than the other investigated samples. Conclusions: The present study demonstrated the feasibility of the combined supercritical extraction and impregnation process in developing materials for topical application based on H. italicum extract. The results of in vivo studies performed on human volunteers confirmed the suitability of H. italicum active components to be a part of human skin protective preparations because of their ability to maintain the skin unimpaired. Traditionally claimed applications as a medicinal plant capable of regenerating skin have been scientifically proven, in addition to employing green technology in obtaining the impregnated materials with a broad spectrum of utilization