Kajian Bentuk dan Makna Tata Rias Tari Bedhaya Bedhah Madiun di Pura Mangkunegaran Surakarta

Abstrak Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui (1) bentuk dan makna tata rias meliputi tata rias wajah dan penataan rambut (2) bentuk dan makna busana (3) bentuk dan makna aksesoris tari bedhaya bedhah Madiun. Metode penelitian menggunakan pendekatan deskriptif kualitatif. Teknik pengumpulan data yaitu wawancara, observasi, dan dokumentasi. Hasil penelitian tata rias tari bedhaya bedhah Madiun adalah: (1) bedak warna kulit sawo matang, eyeshadow berwarna merah bermakna keberanian, biru melambangkan seseorang yang berwatak luas dan memiliki sifat pemberi maaf, dan kuning gading memiliki makna kemuliaan dan kemakmuran. Eyeliner berwarna hitam, alis nanggal sepisan berwarna hitam, blush on perpaduan warna merah dan orange, hidung mancung shading berwarna coklat, bibir ideal berwarna merah, laler menclok berbentuk segitiga dengan titik pada bagian bawah berwarna hitam. Penataan rambut menggunakan kantong gelung. Makna tata rias menonjolkan karakter putri luruh di medan peperangan. Kantong gelung digunakan untuk menghasilkan kesan rambut penari memiliki bentuk penataan yang sama dan rapi.(2) busana meliputi: rompi tanpa lengan warna biru melambangkan seorang prajurit wanita diadaptasi dari busana wayang orang, sampur cinde berwarna merah melambangkan kasepuhan (yang dianggap tua) mencerminkan sifat sabar, tidak terburu nafsu. Jarik motif parang kusumo seling lasem warna coklat bermakna kekayaan.(3) aksesoris meliputi: jamang Cirebon bentuk cringih melambangkan karakter prajurit, garuda mungkur bermakna sebagai sesuatu yang sakral. Cunduk jungkat, sumping, suweng, klat bahu, gelang, bross dan sabuk pending sebagai pelengkap penampilan. Kalung penanggalan berbentuk bulan sabit bermakna seseorang yang berwatak bulan, mampu memberikan sinar kebahagiaan, ketentraman, dan damai. Cundrik yang bermakna sebagai pusaka kyai gumarang milik Retno Dumilah. Kata Kunci: Tata Rias, Retno Dumilah, Bedhaya Bedhah Madiun, Pusaka Kyai Gumarang. Abstract This research is to know (1) the shape and meaning of makaeup include face makeup and hairdo. (2) shape and meaning of fashion (3) shape and meaning of accessories bedhaya bedhah Madiun. The research method uses a qualitative descriptive approach. Data collection techniques are interviews, observations, and documentation. The result of the makeup research bedhaya bedhah Madiun is: (1) The powder color is saw ripe skin colour, red eyeshadow means courage, blue symbolizes a person who is wide disposition and has a forgiving nature, and yellow ivory has meaning glory and prosperity. Black eyeliner, nanggal sepisan eyebrows black color, blush on the blend of red and orange colors, nose angular a brown shading, the ideal lip is red, a triangular-shaped laler menclok with dots on the bottom is black. Hairdouses a tramp bag. The meaning of makeup brings out the character of the princess in battle field. The tramp bag used to produce the impression of a dancers hair has the same and neat arrangement. (2) clothing includes: The blue sleeveless vest symbolize a woman soldier adapted from the fashion of wayang wong, red sampur cinde is symbolize the kasepuhan (which is considered old) reflects the nature of patience, not lust. Jarik parang kusumo seling lasem of brown color means wealth. (3) Accessories include: jamang Cirebon form of cringih used to symbolize the character of soldiers with a strict line shape. Garuda mungkur with tongues stretched red color means as something sacred. Cunduk jungkat, sumping, suweng, shoulder clings, bracelets, bross and the pending belts give meaning as a complement to appearance. A crescent-shaped penanggalan necklace means one who is a moon-disposition, is able to provide ray of happiness, tenderness, and peace. The weapons used is a meaningful cundrik as an inheritance of the Kyai Gumarang owned Retno Dumilah. Keywords: Cosmetology, Retno Dumilah, Bedhaya Bedhah Madiun, Kyai Gumarang weapon