Are we ready for circular business models? An investigation of firms and consumers’ attitudes towards footwear eco-leasing

The production of footwear causes major concerns in relation to water consumption, carbon emissions, resource depletion and the disposal of post-consumer (end-of-life) shoe waste. It is estimated that only 5% of the 20 billion pairs of shoes that are discarded yearly are to some extent recycled, while most of the remaining 95% end up in landfill. Eco-leasing – the long-term rental of a product that at the end of its useful life undergoes a combination of remanufacturing and recycling processes to become a source of secondary raw materials for the production of new goods – is a circular business models that could help close the loop between post-use waste and footwear production. The aim of this research was to investigate the attitude of Italian firms and consumers towards eco-leasing footwear in order to assess its potential for implementation in the shoe industry. First, we conducted 13 qualitative interviews with professionals of the Italian footwear sector and analysed them using content analysis. Second, a survey questionnaire (N=378) was analysed by using graphics analysis and two ordered logistic regressions. Results shows that Italian shoe manufacturers are not aware of the concept of eco-leasing, but they recognise its potential to create a competitive advantage for their firms. However, they consider building partnerships and a reverse supply chain a costly and challenging process. Italian consumers are overall positive about the idea of eco-leasing footwear and its environmental benefits, despite they raise concerns about paying in instalments, a loss of control, and a ‘not for me’ feeling