Review and safety evaluation of active ingredients in skin peels available on the Slovenian market

Človeška koža se spreminja pod vplivom genetike, staranja in okoljskih dejavnikov. V veliko pomoč pri izboljšanju stanja kože so lahko pilingi. Gre za preprosto tehniko, s katero odstranimo odmrle kožne celice s površine kože. Namen diplomske naloge je bil pregledati pilinge za kožo in ugotoviti ali so v njih uporabljene najbolj varne aktivne sestavine za potrošnikovo zdravje. Na slovenskem tržišču smo v drogerijah in spletnih prodajalnah naključno izbrali 55 pilingov za kožo. Najprej smo jih razdelili v dve skupini glede na namen uporabe. Ugotovili smo, da je na tržišču več pilingov namenjenih za uporabo na obrazu, kot za telo. Drugo delitev pa smo naredili glede na vrsto pilinga. Poznamo namreč mehanske, kemične (kislinske) in encimske pilinge. Najbolj številčno zastopani sta bili skupini mehanskih in kemičnih pilingov (skupaj 46), medtem ko je bil encimski piling le eden. Kombinacijo več različnih vrst luščilnih sestavin je vsebovalo 8 izdelkov. Pozorni smo bili tudi na navedbe o koncentraciji aktivnih sestavin v izdelkih. Našli smo jih na 22 izdelkih. Večina je vsebovala koncentracije hidroksi kislin do 10 %, štirje izdelki pa so vsebovali 15 %, 25 % in 30 % hidroksi kislin. Po pregledu vseh aktivnih sestavin v izdelkih smo določili tri najpogosteje uporabljene. V največ izdelkih se pojavljajo glikolna kislina (25,5%), mlečna kislina (20%) in salicilna kislina (14,5%). V literaturi smo poiskali toksikološke podatke in ocenili njihovo varnost. Podatki kažejo, da je previdnost pri uporabi izdelkov s kislinami potrebna predvsem zaradi potencialnega draženja kože in oči ter povečanja občutljivosti kože na sončno svetlobo. Za najvarnejšo izmed pregledanih sestavin smo opredelili salicilno kislino, ki je manj dražeča od glikolne in mlečna kislina ter ne povzroča fotosenzibilizacije kožeHuman skin changes under the influence of genetics, aging and environmental factors. Skin peel can be of great help in improving the condition of the skin. It is a simple technique that removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. The purpose of the thesis was to review them and determine whether they use the safest active ingredients for consumer\u27s health. 55 peeling products were randomly selected in drugstores and online stores on the Slovenian market. First, we divided them into two groups according to the purpose of use. It was concluded that there are more peelings on the market intended for use on the face than the body. The second division was made according to the type of peeling. There are three types of peelings – mechanical (scrubs), chemical (acidic) and enzyme peelings. The groups of mechanical and chemical peels were the most numerous (46 products in total), only one peel was enzymatic. 8 products contained a combination of two different types of exfoliating ingredients. Attention was also paid to the indications about the concentration of active ingredients used in the products. They were found ton 22 products. Most contained hydroxy acid concentrations up to 10 %, however four products contained 15 %, 25 % and 30 % of hydroxy acids. After reviewing all the active ingredients in the products, the most common three were chosen - glycolic acid (25,5%), lactic acid (20%) and salicylic acid (14,5%). We reviewed available toxicological data and assessed their safety. It was shown that caution is necessary when using products with hydroxy acids, mainly due to potential skin and eye irritation and increased skin sensitivity to sunlight. Salicylic acid was identified as the safest of the tested ingredients, because it is less irritating compared to glycolic and lactic acid and does not cause photosensititzation of the skin