Surface Wave Processes on the Continental Shelf and Beach

LONG-TERM GOALS: Wind waves and swell dominate the hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes on many continental shelves and beaches, affect underwater acoustics, and play an important role in remote sensing applications. Wave prediction in coastal environments is a challenging task because waves are affected by many processes, including scattering by seafloor topography, strong nonlinear interactions, wave breaking, and friction in the bottom boundary layer. Several of these processes are poorly understood and existing wave prediction models rely on parameterizations and empirical calibration to represent them. The long term goals of this research are to obtain a better understanding of the physical processes that affect ocean surface waves in the coastal environment and develop improved wave prediction capability.Award Numbers: N0001408WR20154, N0001408WR20003, N00014-07-1-0365, N00014-07-1-040