At Home in a Foreign Place? European Food and Consumption Habits in Nineteenth Century China

In the nineteenth century, the global expansion of the West attracted many Europeans tostart a new life abroad. China was one of the countries that promised good earnings andhigh social positions combined with thrilling exoticism. Over the course of the century,Westerners established settlements in strategically important cities of the country, such asShanghai or Tianjin. By the end of the century, many of them had grown into large communitieswith highly developed infrastructures that included schools, community housesand churches. When Europeans started settling in China, food played an important rolein establishing a new life abroad. Culinary traditions not only helped to transfer nationalidentities to the new environment, they also created a platform for cultural transfer andthe emergence of a new, international community. Common, often extensive meals markedthe daily life in China’s European settlements. They offered a welcomed distraction as wellas the possibility of a new social definition and differentiation of the self. By exploring thefood habits and consumer behaviour, this paper analyses how Europeans established theiridentity and community in nineteenth century China.In the nineteenth century, the global expansion of the West attracted many Europeans tostart a new life abroad. China was one of the countries that promised good earnings andhigh social positions combined with thrilling exoticism. Over the course of the century,Westerners established settlements in strategically important cities of the country, such asShanghai or Tianjin. By the end of the century, many of them had grown into large communitieswith highly developed infrastructures that included schools, community housesand churches. When Europeans started settling in China, food played an important rolein establishing a new life abroad. Culinary traditions not only helped to transfer nationalidentities to the new environment, they also created a platform for cultural transfer andthe emergence of a new, international community. Common, often extensive meals markedthe daily life in China’s European settlements. They offered a welcomed distraction as wellas the possibility of a new social definition and differentiation of the self. By exploring thefood habits and consumer behaviour, this paper analyses how Europeans established theiridentity and community in nineteenth century China