SCCS OPINION on the safety of alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin in cosmetic products - SCCS/1642/22 – Preliminary Opinion

International audienceSCCS OPINION on the safety of alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin in cosmetic products - SCCS/1642/22 – Preliminary OpinionU. Bernauer, L. Bodin, Q. Chaudhry, P.J. Coenraad, M. Dusinska, J. Ezendam, E. Gaffet, C. L. Galli, B. Granum, E. Panteri, V. Rogiers, Ch. Rousselle, M. Stepnik, T. Vanhaecke, S. Wijnhoven, N. Cabaton, A. Koutsodimou, W. Uter, N. von GoetzThe SCCS adopted this document at its plenary meeting on 15 and 16 March 2022 (70 Pages)Mise en ligne 26 Mars 2022https://ec.europa.eu/health/publications/safety-alpha-arbutin-and-beta-arbutin-cosmetic-products_en DetailsPublication date25 March 2022AuthorScientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)DescriptionSCCS members: U. Bernauer, L. Bodin, Q. Chaudhry, P.J. Coenraads (Chairperson), M. Dusinska, J. Ezendam, E. Gaffet, C.L. Galli, B. Granum, E. Panteri, V. Rogiers (Rapporteur), Ch. Rousselle, M. Stepnik, T. Vanhaecke, S. WijnhovenSCCS external experts: N. Cabaton, A. Koutsodimou, W. Uter, N. von GoetzContact:SANTE-C2-SCCS@ec.europa.euOn request from: European CommissionSCCS Number: SCCS/1642/22Adopted on: 15-16 March 2022Conclusion of the opinion: (1) In light of the data provided, does the SCCS consider α-arbutin safe when used in face creams up to a maximum concentration of 2% and in body lotions up to a maximum concentration of 0.5 %?Having considered the data provided, and other relevant information available in scientific literature, the SCCS cannot conclude on the safety of alpha-arbutin when used in face creams up to a maximum concentration of 2% and in body lotions up to a maximum concentration of 0.5%. Relevant data on the degradation/metabolism of alpha-arbutin, exposed to the skin microbiome/enzymes, are not available and the release of hydroquinone and its final fate are not documented. These data are essentially required for safety assessment.(2) In the event that the estimated exposure to α-arbutin from cosmetic products is found to be of concern, SCCS is asked to recommend safe concentration limits.For the reasons given under question 1, the SCCS cannot recommend a safe concentration of alpha-arbutin.(3) In light of the data provided, does the SCCS consider β-arbutin safe when used in face creams up to a maximum concentration of 7%?No information was provided during the call for data. The SCCS has, therefore, considered the information available in scientific literature but regarded it insufficient to conclude on the safety of beta-arbutin when used in face cream up to a maximum concentration of 7%. Also, relevant data on the fate of beta-arbutin, when applied to human skin and its microbiome/enzymes, are not available and the release of hydroquinone and its final fate are not documented.(4) In the event that the estimated exposure to β-arbutin from cosmetic products is found to be of concern, SCCS is asked to recommend safe concentration limits.For the reasons given under question 3, the SCCS cannot recommend a safe concentration of beta-arbutin.(5) In light of the data provided, does the SCCS consider that the presence of hydroquinone in the cosmetic formulations must remain below 1 ppm for both α- and β arbutin containing products?Hydroquinone should remain as low as possible in formulations containing alpha-or beta arbutin and should not be higher than the unavoidable traces in both arbutins. In the new studies, submitted by the applicant, 3ppm was the LOQ/LOD of the methodology used.(6) Does the SCCS have any further scientific concerns regarding the use of a- and β arbutin in cosmetic products in relation to aggregate exposure from such substances in cosmetics?Safe concentrations for either of the arbutins in cosmetic products cannot be established without the data on the release of hydroquinone and their final fate.Keywords:SCCS, scientific opinion, alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin, Regulation 1223/2009Opinion to be cited as:SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), Opinion on the safety of alpha- (CAS No. 84380-018, EC No. 617-561-8) and beta-arbutin (CAS No. 497- 76-7, EC No. 207-8503) in cosmetic products, preliminary version of 15-16 March 2022, SCCS/1642/2