CLOTHING AND THE TEMPORAL KINGDOM: MORMON CLOTHING PRACTICES, 1847 TO 1887

The study investigated how basic garments and accessories presented as visual symbols in daily interaction with group members and the world expressed the beliefs, social behavior, and material environment of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormon). Consideration was limited to the Kingdom building phase of settlement in Utah Territory, 1847-1887. Sources were church documents and publications, histories, scholarly literature, newspapers, diaries, letters, photographs, and extant garments. Symbolic interaction theory provided the major framework for analyzing findings. Leaders encouraged bringing in textiles and clothing from outside Utah to supply needs during the first ten years of settlement. Thus fashionable dress was available and was adopted by Mormons who aspired to its world recognized symbolism of economic success and achievement of middle class status. Dress became an issue in 1857 when church leaders called for a reformation in response to unsettled political conditions, economic stress, and perceived loss of control in directing member behavior. Members were counseled to relinquish wearing imported textiles and clothing, and become self-sufficient in satisfying clothing needs. Over the next decade, followers of church counsel wore simplified versions of current fashions, some constructed from locally grown and processed materials. However, fashionable clothing continued to be worn as a symbol of status within the group by church leaders, their family members, and others who could afford the price, and by missionaries abroad to convey a message of Mormon success to prospective converts. Retrenchment from Babylon\u27s fashions was the stated mission of women\u27s societies organized in Salt Lake City in 1869. Women were counseled to return to past modes and create their own fashions as a symbol of temporal Mormonism. The retrenchment movement coincided with renewed stress on self-sufficiency made in response to increasing gentile influence in Utah Territory. Fashionable dress persisted as a visible clothing symbol in Mormon society indicating the congruency of Mormon temporal aims with the world acknowledged symbolism of nineteenth century fashion