The relationship between tradition, tourism and gastronomy: Cuisine and culinary heritage in 'salaš' (farm) tourism

U radu se razmatra odnos između tradicije i turizma na primeru gastronomske ponude u okviru tzv. 'salašarskog turizma'. U poslednjoj deceniji salaši u Vojvodini su postali veoma popularna turistička destinacija i atrakcija kao vrsta ruralnog i kulturnog turizma. Salaši, koji su revitalizovani za potrebe turizma, u medijima i u turističkim brošurama predstavljeni su kao 'mesta povratka tradiciji', kao 'autentični čuvari kulinarskog nasleđa Vojvodine', stvarajući tako romantizovanu i idealizovanu predstavu o prošlosti vojvođanskih paora. U radu se ispituje na koji način su elementi tradicionalne kulture inkorporirani u turističku ponudu. Gastronomska politika restorana-salaša dovodi se u vezu sa globalnim aktivističkim 'pokretom spore hrane' (slow food movement) koji se zasniva na prehrambenim namirnicama koje se lokalno proizvode/gaje i na tradicionalnim tehnikama pripreme hrane. Rad je rezultat terenskih istraživanja salaša u Bačkoj i Banatu, koji su revitalizovani za potrebe turizma i ugostiteljstva, kao i analize sadržaja medijskih predstavljanja salašarskog turizma.The paper considers the relationship between tradition and tourism as exemplified by the cuisine on offer in so called 'salaš tourism'. Over the course of the last decade, farms in Vojvodina have become popular tourist destination and an attraction as a form of rural and cultural tourism. Farms which have been revitalized to meet the needs of tourism are represented as 'places of returning to tradition' in brochures and the media, thus creating a romanticized and idealized image of the past of Vojvodina peasants. The paper examines the ways in which elements of traditional culture are incorporated into the tourist offer. The gastronomic policies of salaš- restaurants is associated with the global 'slow food' movement which is based on locally grown and produced food and traditional preparation techniques. The paper is the result of fieldwork conducted in salaš-farms in Bačka and Banat, which have been revitalized as catering businesses and tourist attractions, as well as on the analysis of media representations of salaš tourism