Cultures of origin, economies of emotion and the portability of textile heritage

In Europe, the extended knowledge networks and shared social capital of textiles communities have enabled them to become powerful influencers of economic and cultural policy in their historic districts and regions. Specialist textile communities have traditionally developed over long periods of time, as defined places of tacit and haptic learning. The fabrics, garments or specialist accessories produced by these mainly artisanal industries are proudly traded as expressions of a homogenous material and cultural heritage; products of a collective know-how inflected by deep-rooted narratives and social values. That said, since the 2009 economic crisis, regardless of the contribution to regional economies and political influence, the European textile sector has shown vulnerability to external competition, environmental concerns in the supply chain, outsourcing and the challenges of economic migration. Focusing on this last topic in more depth, this essay considers the question of industry decline and renewal, foregrounding case studies of established social enterprises in Australia and recent European start-ups. For example, between 2011 and 2013, Australia has been the locus for a growing entrepreneurial spirit in community development, and has seen the launch of several projects aimed at social growth and empowerment of refugee and migrant populations through fashion. The case studies highlight an increased focus on retention of heritage, overlooked material and missing histories that may be lost during migratory journeys, as economic assets that can help build resilient and self-sustaining communities. Using theories of bricolage- the process of making do with whatever is at hand- and the histories of quilting- where women swapped fabrics as signs of emotional attachment- the essay reflects on a model of industry renewal where the cultural context of origin is retained and transformed, shaping social inclusion, industrial innovation and an economy based on shared value. The case studies illustrate ways to revive small-scale textile and fashion manufacture, and suggest how we might renegotiate our expectations of traditional trading exchanges, to re-value the “portability” of memories and cultural heritage