Shuttling between dimensions: Application of geometrical thinking in the construction of multilayer-weave structures

Weaving is a well-developed technique that has existed in human history since millennia. Although there are limitations imposed by the capabilities of existing looms and production methods, weavers can still craft numerous interesting textiles structures with these machineries. This thesis investigates the relationship between the weaver and the loom in order to create novel weave structures within the woven technical constraints. In the context of this thesis, a weave structure is regarded as a three-dimensional form, built by two-dimensional surfaces that are constructed by one-dimensional yarns. The aim of this thesis is to broaden understanding of the dimensions in weave structures and serve as a source of inspiration to generate novel weave forms. This thesis investigates different methods of conducting weaving notation, in particular the role of a weaver in drafting them. Through studying the logic of geometrical construction and various view types presented as graphics within the weaving process, this work incorporates the concept of points, lines, and planes described in geometry into an in-depth analysis of innovative, three-dimensional weaving techniques. By adopting a practice-led research method, this thesis inspects and documents the relationship among several factors involved in the weaving process: weaver, loom, and weave structure. This thesis is focused on properties of multilayer-weave structures, and hence, double weave was selected as the starting point of the research. These weave structures are investigated in detail through scalable paper models. The practical portion of this thesis involves creating new variations of interlacement in multilayer weave interchange by incorporating the knowledge acquired from analysis of the initial paper models in combination with the novel weave structure drafting method developed. The result of this study shows a method to achieve structural diversity within multilayer textiles without the need of changing the existing mechanism of conventional looms. Furthermore, the new approach adopted throughout this thesis could also create three-dimensional patterns on textiles by manipulating the interchanges linking different fabric layers