Review of studies evaluating vitamin C effects on photoaged skin

Ozadje: Staranje kože je neizogiben proces, ki spreminja videz in strukturo kože. Eden izmed glavnih vzrokov ekstrinzičnega staranja kože je ultravijolična svetloba, zato ga imenujemo fotostaranje. Z različnimi kozmetičnimi izdelki in antioksidanti želimo ublažiti oziroma izboljšati videz fotostarane kože. Pri tem se srečamo z vitaminom C, ki je nizkomolekularni, neencimski antioksidant, ki ga najdemo v različnih kozmetičnih izdelkih kot kozmetično aktivno sestavino za pomlajevanje. Poleg vitamina C se srečamo tudi z njegovimi derivati, ki lažje prodrejo skozi kožo in so bolj stabilni. Za vrednotenje učinkov vitamina C na koži se pri kliničnih raziskavah uporabljajo različne naprave oziroma metode, ki podajo oceno o stanju kože. Namen: Pregled kliničnih raziskav, ki obravnavajo vpliv nanosa vitamina C in njegovih derivatov na fotostarano kožo obraza. Metode: Za pregled raziskav smo uporabili dve podatkovni bazi – Web of Science in PubMed. Določili smo iskalni profil, časovno obdobje in vključitvene ter izključitvene kriterije, ki so nam pomagali priti do končnega števila raziskav. Poleg tega smo iskali le raziskave v angleškem jeziku. Rezultati in razprava: V pregledu smo obravnavali 10 raziskav, ki so ustrezale vključitvenim in izključitvenim kriterijem. Najprej smo dane raziskave analizirali glede na leto objave in državo, v kateri se je študija izvedla. Nato pa smo raziskave razdelili na tri podskupine glede na način ovrednotenja rezultatov. Raziskave se delijo na te, ki uporabljajo oceno dermatologov kot glavno metodo vrednotenja, na raziskave, ki so uporabile silikonske odlitke in raziskave, ki so uporabile različne instrumentalne naprave za določanje vpliva testiranih kozmetičnih izdelkov. Sklep: Po obravnavi literature smo prišli do zaključka, da obstaja možna povezava med funkcijami vitamina C in derivati. Glede na rezultate je po mnenju raziskovalcev vitamin C vplival na izboljšanje videza kože. Vendar tega ne trdijo vse obravnavane raziskave. Kljub danim rezultatom menimo, da je področje uporabe vitamina C za tovrstne namene zanimiva tematika, ki omogoča še veliko raziskovanja.Background: Skin aging is an inevitable process that changes the appearance and structure of the skin. One of the main causes of extrinsic skin aging is ultraviolet light, which is the reason why it is called photoaging. We want to soften or improve the appearance of photoaging skin with cosmetic products and antioxidants. Therefore, we meet with vitamin C that is a non-enzymatic antioxidant with low molecular weight, found in various cosmetic products as a cosmetic active ingredient for rejuvenation. In addition to vitamin C, we also encounter its derivatives, which penetrate the skin more easily and are more stable. To evaluate the effects of vitamin C on the skin, multiple devices or methods are used in clinical research to assess the condition of the skin. Aim: Review of clinical trials addressing the impact of application of vitamin C and its derivatives on photoaging facial skin. Methods: We used two databases to review the research - Web of Science and PubMed. We determined the search profile, period, and inclusion and exclusion criteria that helped us arrive at the final number of surveys. In addition, we only searched for research in English. Results: In the review, we examined 10 studies that met the inclusion and exclusion criteria. We first analysed the given research according to the year of publication and the country in which the study was conducted. We then divided the research into three subgroups according to the way the results were evaluated. The research is divided into those that use dermatologists\u27 assessment as the main method of evaluation, research that used silicone castings, and research that used different instrumental devices to determine the impact of tested cosmetic products. Conclusion: After reviewing the literature, we concluded that there is a possible link between the functions of vitamin C and derivatives in theory and in practice itself. According to the results the researchers think that vitamin C influenced improving the appearance of the skin. But not all clinical studies confirm the actual changes. Despite the given results, we believe that the field of use of vitamin C for such purposes is a compelling topic that allows a lot of research