Modellierung von Seegang in extremem Flachwasser

A numerical wave model for very shallow water has been developed for investigating waves in coastal areas. This wave model (HYPASUS), a meteorological model (GESIMA) and a current model (NFMOD) has been coupled iteratively. This coupling allows one to study the influnce between the actual water level on the waves as well as the interaction between the local wind field and the waves. A new function has been developed for calculating the dissipation of wave energy. The system of coupled models is used to compute the wave climate of the North Frisian Wadden Sea, the area around the island of Norderney and in the List Tidal Basin. The aggreement between computed and measured wave spectra and wave heights is satisfactory. The tidal signal of a measured time series of significant wave heights could be reproduced for the first time. (orig.)SIGLEAvailable from TIB Hannover: RA 3251(94/E/66) / FIZ - Fachinformationszzentrum Karlsruhe / TIB - Technische InformationsbibliothekDEGerman