HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF CORSETS FROM THE 16TH TO THE BEGINNING OF THE 20TH CENTURY

Cilj rada je analizirati kulturološke i društvene aspekte koji su doveli do razvoja korzeta kao uporabe u kontroliranju ženina tijela i alata za prekrivanje neželjene odnosno isticanje željene tjelesne karakteristike. Korzet je pri tome bio alat s kojim su se ciljane karakteristike poput struka isticale, a neke neželjene obline poput trbuha prikrivale. Analizom konstrukcijskih elemenata i razvoja korzeta ukazat će se nastojanje da se korzet prilagođava promjenama kulturoloških i društvenih vremenskih promjena, s nastojanjem da se potisnu žalbe neugodnog korzeta prilikom nošenja uvođenjem zdravijeg i udobnijeg korzeta za nošenje. Proučavanjem ženskog korzeta kroz njegovo djelovanje kroz povijest saznaje se kako je društvo određenog vremena funkcioniralo i zašto, korzet je sjajan odraz tih elemenata, njime vidimo da žena nije imala mnogo fizičke, društvene i političke slobode, jer se smatralo da je žena po prirodi manje sposobna od muškaraca. Postavlja se pitanje zašto je žena pristala na nošenje odjevnog predmeta poput korzeta koji je sputavao kretanje i funkcionalnost uz konstantnu bol koju je nanosio korisnici. Zanimljiva je konstrukcija korzeta koja je osmišljena kako bi tijelo što više suzila, ograničila i učinila oku promatrača estetski privlačnijim, prilikom izrade korzeta uloženo je znanje o konstrukciji, modeliranju, šivanju uz mnogo truda i strpljenja. Kroz 5 stoljeća u kojima je bilo aktualno nošenje korzeta, korzeti su varirali u korištenju atraktivnih materijala tog vremena – kako tekstilnih, tako i materijala potrebnih u ojačavanju i pružanju potpore u željenoj silueti pojedinog vremena. Cilj i metode koje su korištene odgovaraju na pitanja kakvu su ulogu korzeti imali u pojedinim razdobljima, koji je utjecaj korzeta na zdravlje pojedinca prilikom nošenja korzeta kroz analize korisnica i izvješća doktora, analiziraju se modeli i siluete korzeta pojedinog vremenskog razdoblja te konstrukcijski elementi i pripadajući izbor tekstilnih materijala korzeta.The aim of the paper is to analyze the cultural and social aspects, which led to the development of corsets as a use in controlling a woman’s body and a tool to cover up unwanted and highlight desired physical characteristics. The corset was a tool with which the targeted characteristics, such as the waist, stood out, and some unwanted curves, such as the abdomen, were concealed. The analysis of construction elements and the development of corsets will indicate an effort to adapt the corset to changes in cultural and social changes, with an effort to weight the complaints of uncomfortable corset when worn by introducing a healthier and more comfortable corset to wear. By studying the female corset through its action throughout history, one learns how society has functioned for some time and why, the corset is a great reflection of these elements, it shows that a woman did not have much physical, social and political freedom because a woman was considered less capable of men. Wearing an item of clothing such as a corset that restrained movement and functionality along with the constant pain inflicted by the users raises the question of why the woman agreed to it. Interesting is the construction of the corset, which is designed to narrow the body as much as possible, limit it and make it more aesthetically pleasing to the eye of the observer. During the production of the corset, knowledge of construction, modeling, sewing with a lot of effort and patience was invested. Throughout the 5th century in which corsets were worn, corsets varied from each other by the use of attractive materials of the time both textiles and materials needed to strengthen and provide support in the desired silhouette of a particular time. The aim and methods used answer the questions about the role of corsets in certain periods, the impact of corsets on individual health when wearing corsets through user analyzes and doctor's reports, analysis of models and silhouettes of corsets of a particular period, and analysis of structural elements and associated choice of textiles. corset material