World of Specialty Animal Fibers

Specialty hair fiber, any of the textile fibers obtained from certain animals of the goat and camel families, are rarer than the more commonly used fibers and are valued for such desirable properties as fine diameter, natural luster, and ability to impart pleasing hand to fabrics. Specialty hair fibers obtained from the goat family include mohair from the Angora goat, and cashmere, sometimes referred to as cashmere wool, from the Kashmir goat. Common goats yield the less- valuable goat hair that is used mainly in low- cost felts and carpets manufactured for the automobile industry. Fibers obtained from animals of the camel family include camel hair, mainly from the Bactrian camel, and guanaco, llama, alpaca, and vicuña fibers, all from members of the genus Lama. Specialty hair fibers are gathered by hunting or domesticating the animals for their pelts or by periodic collecting fleece from live animals. Most of the fibers are low in the crimp and felting properties. In the United States, however, the Wool Products Labeling Act (1939) allows the designation of such fibers as “wool” in fiber- content labels. Like wool, and the finer, shorter fur fibers, hair fibers grow from the epidermis of the animal, forming the characteristic coat, and are composed chiefly of the protein substance keratin; their chemical properties are similar to those of wool. The animal is usually covered with two types of fiber. An outer coat of shiny, stiff guard hair affords protection from the elements. The undercoat, or down, composed of short, fine, soft fiber, provides insulation against heat and cold. Short, coarse, brittle hairs, called kemp, may be intermingled with both types of fiber. Separation of the downy fiber from other hair may be achieved by combing or by a blowing process that causes the heavier fiber to fall away. Such operations may be repeated several times to minimize coarse- fiber content. Long fibers with fine diameter and light color are usually the most desirable and expensive. An exception is vicuña, valued for its fairly dark cinnamon- brown color. Specialty hair fibers costly because of their rarity and the processing they require may be used alone in luxury fabrics for fine garments. They may also be blended with wool or other fibers to enhance appearance or texture, imparting softness or special effects. The coarse guard hairs are frequently blended with wool to impart luster