Study case – reconstruction of women's clothing from the second half of the 17th century

Cilj rada je pokušaj rekonstrukcije ženskog odjevnog predmeta iz razdoblja baroka. Istraživanje se temelji na postojećim artefaktima predstavljenim na dostupnim digitalnim bazama arhivirane građe iz pojedinih muzeja te na analizi analognih primjera prikazanih na portretima druge polovice 17. stoljeća. Uz pokušaj rekonstrukcije, cilj je preispitati društvenu ulogu gornje ženske odjeće naziva bodice – ulogu pokazatelja statusa, nacionalnog identiteta ali i nositelja trendova kojima se žensko tijelo sputavalo. U radu se koriste smjernice iz knjige „Patterns of fashion 5: The content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c. 1590 – 1795“ povjesničarke odjeće Janet Arnold. Izrada bodice-a pokazala je veliko umijeće u uzimanju mjera, modeliranju i dosljednoj razradi kroja. Upotreba različitih materijala i kosti (fišbajn), izrada detalja i načini fiksiranja odjevnog predmeta rezultirali su vrlo kompleksnim, iako na prvi pogled jednostavnim, odjevnim predmetom. Nošenjem rekonstruiranog gornjeg ženskog odjevnog bodice-a, postiže se sputanost i dekonstrukcija tijela toga doba.The aim of this paper is an attempt to reconstruct a women's piece of clothing from the Baroque period. The research is based on existing artifacts presented on available digital databases of archived material from individual museums and the analysis of examples shown in portraits of the second half of the 17th century. In addition to the attempt at reconstruction, the goal is to re-examine the social role of women's outerwear called bodice – its role as an indicator of status, national identity, but also as a bearer of trends that hindered the female body. The paper uses guidelines from the book „Patterns of fashion 5: The content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c. 1590 – 1795“ by clothing historian Janet Arnold. The making of the bodice showed great skill in taking measurements, modeling, and the consistent elaboration of the cut. The use of different materials and bones, the making of details and the ways of fitting a garment resulted in a very complex garment, albeit simple at first glance. By wearing the reconstructed women's upper clothing, bodice, the restraint, and the deconstruction of the body in that historical period is achieved