Table of Contents from Textile Society of America- Seventh Biennial Symposium 2000

CONTENTS Preface Session 1. Quechua and Navajo Textiles: Teaching Tradition Through Weaving Quechua Textiles: Preserving a Living Tradition Nilda Callanaupa 1 Navajo Weaver as a Teacher of Traditional Textile Arts Pearl Sunrise 3 Session 2. Andean Textile Analyses, past and Present The Aristocracy of Color among Kolla Communities in the Andes of Northwest Argentina Andrea Fuch 4 The Order of Things in Ancient Peru Visual Metaphors in Wari-associated DWW TextilesJane Rehl 9 Session 3. The Washita (Lodge Pole River) Massacre Blanket: from Southwestern Loom to Cheyenne Village and Beyond The Washita Chief Blanket: Part I, Textile AnalysisPeggy Whitehead and Joyce Herold 21 The Washita Chief Blanket: Part II, Provenance and Ethnohistory Joyce Herold and Gordon L. Yellowman, Sr. 31 Session 4. Prehistoric Textiles Pitfalls, Perceptions, Problems, and Possibilities in the Perusal of Prehistoric Fabrics Mary Elizabeth King Archaeological Textiles: the Numbers Game Nettie K. Adams Ancient Traditions, New Interpretations: Compression Resist Textiles in North and Mesoamerica Virginia Davis 58 Approaching Fabrics Through Impressions on Pottery Penelope B. Drooker 59 Session 5. Computerized Jacquard Weaving: Exploring Options and Issues for Textile Artists & Designers A Cautionary Tale Concerning Textile Reproduction Marjorie Durko Puryear 69 Jacquard Art Weaving: an Inexhaustible Process of Exploration Louise Lemieux Berube 77 From Upholstery to Installation: Educating Designers and Artists Using an Electronic Jacquard Loom 84Deborah First A Mao a Minute: Real Computers as Virtual1 Weavers Lisa Lee Peterson 95 Session 6. Reflecting on the Upper World: Textiles of Heaven and Earth Decoding the Divine: Kathi Embroideries of Saurashtra Victoria Rivers 101 Conversing with the CosmosLinda Beeman 112 Woven Incantations Jasleen Dhamija 121 Narrating Seen and Unseen Worlds: Vanishing Balinese Embroideries Joseph Fischer 122 Session 7. Museum Viewpoints-Fiber Art and the Struggle for Recognition Panelists: Melissa Leventon, Lotus Stack and Suzanne Baizerman Session 8. Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization India-west Africa Trade Textiles (Iwatt): \u27An Escapade in the Life\u27 of Gujarati Mirror-work Embroidery Hazel Lutz 124 Cloth in Contemporary West Africa: A Symbiosis of Factory-made and Hand-made Cloth Heather Marie Akou 132 Afghan after a Fashion: the Fusion of Politics with Religion and Women\u27s Textile Craft Economies Catherine Daly 142 Discussion of Panel Textile Tradition and Fashion in the Context of Globalization Joanne Eicher 151 Session 9. The Strength of Embroidered Symbols Policarpio Valencia\u27s Embroidered PoetryAnnin Barrett 153 Turkoman Embroidery and Women\u27s Magic Kate Fitz Gibbon 157 Embodying Embroidery: Researching Women\u27s Folk Art in Western India Michele Hardy 158 Heavens\u27 Embroidered Cloths - Textilesfrom the Honan Chapel, University College Cork, Ireland Elizabeth Wincott Heckett 167 Session 10. Cultural and Political References in Contemporary Fiber Art and Textile Production Contemporary Polish Textile Art: a Legacy in Transition Gayle-Winnnner 173 Shibori: Tradition and Innovation Ana Lisa Hedstronn 177 Teaching and Learning: a University Studio Art Experience of Trique Weaving Laura Strand 178 A Sense of Place and Identity in Aotearoa New Zealand Kelly Thonnpson 179 Session 11. Textiles in and from Japan Old Ties and New Points Keiko Kobayashi 185 Bureaucratic Ideals and Artisanal Reality: Survival Strategies in the Production of Echigo Ju Melissa M. Rinne 195 Japanese Kimono Fashion of the Early Twentieth Century Annie Van Asche 196 Session 12. Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes Tokapu Messages Catherine Julien 202 Textiles and Their Messages: Perspectives from the Central Andes: an Examination of Structure as Message in the Chavin Textiles. William J. Conklin 208 Clothes from Cactus? Ancient and Contemporary Examples of Cactus Fiber Clothes and Textiles in Ecuador Lynn A. Meisch 209 The Multiple Layers of Meaning in a Paracas Necropolis Textile Anne Paul 210 \u27Tornesol\u27: a Colonial Synthesis of European and Andean Textile Traditions Elena Phipps 221 Of Gods and Men, Ancestors and Tapestry in the Central Andes Amy Oakland Rodman 231 Session 13.Panel: Fiber Art/works of Art Fiber Art/works of Art: Positioning and Perception in the Marketplace Alice Zriebec 241 Session 14. Putting Out Textiles: Economic Approaches The Gaziantep Cloth Trade: a Study of a Putting-out System of Cloth Production in Southeastern TurkeyCharlotte Jirousek 244 Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh Noorjehan Bilgrami 253 African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830 Karen Hampton 262 The Invasion of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art Made in Mexico and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act W. Warner Wood 272 Session 15. African Textiles in Trade Weaving and the World Economy or How Colonialism and Coffee Affected the Indigenous Weaving Industry in Zuenoula, Cote D\u27ivoire Barbara Sumberg 282 A Textile Enterprise as a Tool of Economic Development: Part I Haddy Prom 288 A Textile Enterprise As a Tool of Economic Development: Part II June Pearson Bland 292 Session 16. Expanding Textile Studies Expanding Textile Studies Through the Use of a University Costume Collection Gayle Strege 297 A Faculty / Staff Discussion Seminar on Textiles Deborah A. Brothers 298 Expanding Textile Study: Some Recent Approaches Karen Herbaugh 300 Textiles, Scholarship, and Art Education: an Art College Perspective Wendy Landry 302 Conservators\u27 Approaches to Viewing Textiles Harold Mailand 308 Discussion of Recent Approaches to Expanding Textile Studies Patricia Cunningham 315 Session 17. Textiles Viewed from the Decorative Arts Bringing it Home: Extracultural Experiences in the Art of Carolyn Price Dyer Mary Lane 316 Examining Mid-century Decorative Arts: Pipsan Saarinen Swanson\u27s Printed Textiles for the Saarinen Swanson Group Ashley Brown 321 From Paint to Wool: Artist-weavers at the Victorian Tapestry Workshop Tina Kane 328 Session 18. Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth Panel: Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth I Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns 337 Panel: Reinventing a Cultural Self: Textile Design and Native American Youth II Gloria E. Gonzalez-Kruger, Wendy Weiss and Mary Lee Johns 338 Session 19. Cultural Contexts of Textile Production Ixchel and Cotton Cloth Production in Classic Period Northern YucatanTraci Ardren 349 Revisiting Kashmir in Spirit Peter Harris 350 Reed Screens of Central Asia John Sommer 357 Session 20. Textile as Code Nature as Code Ruth Schueing 358 Material and the Promise of the Immaterial Ingrid Bachman 366 Performative Textile Gestures Ann Newdigate 372 Ajrak: Cloth from the Soil of Sindh Noorjehan Bilgrami 253 African American Women: Plantation Textile Production from 1750 to 1830 Karen Hampton 262 The Invasion of Zapotec Textiles: Indian Art Made in Mexico and the Indian Arts and Crafts Act W. Warner Wood 27