Fast fashion - health-social aspects on consumption habits and attitudes toward second hand clothing among adolescents

Uvod: Dostop in ravnanje z oblačili se v zadnjih dvajsetih letih precej spremenil. Hitra moda kupcem na tedenski ravni ponuja nove modne kose po nizkih cenah, a po drugi strani resno ogroža okolje in zdravje ljudi. Oblačila hitre mode zaradi intenzivnega razvoja lastne identitete, socializacije in nizke cene pogosto nakupujejo predvsem mladostniki. Namen: Namen magistrskega dela je raziskati nakupovalne navade in poznavanje problematike hitre mode med mladostniki, opisno opredeliti njihov odnos do rabljenih oblačil in zajeti izkušnje ob uporabi rabljenih oblačil. Metode dela: Magistrsko delo temelji na deskriptivni metodi. Za uvod in teoretičen del smo opravili pregled literature, kjer smo za nabor uporabili spletna orodja relevantnih bibliografskih baz. V empiričnem delu smo uporabili kvalitativno metodo raziskovanja, osnovano na polstrukturiranem intervjuju. Intervjuvali smo 9 posameznikov starih med 17 in 25 let, ki predstavljajo specifičen vzorec populacije. Pridobljene podatke smo analizirali v skladu s koncepti in postopki kvalitativne analize vsebine. Rezultati: Sodelujoči oblačila pridobivajo z nakupovanjem novih ali rabljenih oblačil ter z izmenjavo, izposojo in predajo rabljenih oblačil ali pa si jih izdelajo sami. Ko jim oblačila odslužijo, skušajo z njimi ravnati kar se da trajnostno, kljub temu pa jih odlagajo neločeno od ostalih odpadkov. Ponovne uporabe ali podarjanja se poslužujejo med sorojenci pa tudi med prijatelji. Zavedajo se nekaterih negativnih učinkov hitre mode in do delavcev v tej industriji čutijo družbeno odgovornost. Pri poseganju po alternativnih oblačilih (rabljena, izposojena ali izmenjana) se čutijo nemočne, saj jih modna in poceni ponudba potiskata v nenehno zadovoljevanje potrebe po novih oblačilih hitre mode. Do rabljenih oblačil imajo predsodke takrat, ko ne poznajo prejšnjih uporabnikov, izposoja pa jim je blizu predvsem za občasne, svečane priložnosti. Razprava in sklep: Rezultati v primerjavi s slovenskimi in tujimi študijami v družbah s podobno družbeno-politično ureditvijo kažejo na precej univerzalen pojav nakupovalnih navad oblačil in izkušenj z rabljenimi oblačili. Prednost študije je v zajemu širokega spektra zdravstveno-socialnih vidikov hitre mode skozi zavedanje, znanje in prepričanje posameznih slovenskih mladostnikov. Študija dodatno izpostavlja predvsem nemoč in občutek nesmisla, ki ju posamezniki lahko doživljajo ob zavedanju problematike pa vendar pri tem ostajajo skorajda brez možnosti izbire alternative hitri modi. Ob koncu študija podaja tudi nekaj predlogov za opolnomočenje širše družbe na različnih nivojih.Introduction: Access to and handling clothing has changed significantly over the last two decades. Fast fashion offers new fashion pieces to customers weekly at low prices, but on the other hand, it seriously threatens the environment and human health. Due to the intensive development of one\u27s own identity, socialization, and low prices, fast fashion clothes are often bought mainly by adolescents. Purpose: The purpose of the master\u27s thesis is to investigate adolescent\u27s clothing shopping habits and their knowledge of the fast fashion problematic, to descriptively define their attitudes towards used clothing, and to cover their experiences of using used (secondhand) clothes. Methods: The master\u27s thesis is based on the descriptive method. For the introduction and the theoretical part, we conducted a literature review, using online tools of relevant bibliographic databases. In the empirical part, we used a qualitative research method based on a semi-structured interview. We interviewed 9 adolescents aged between 17 and 25 years, who are representing a specific population sample. We analyzed the obtained data by following the concepts and procedures of qualitative content analysis. Results: Participants acquire clothing by purchasing new or used clothing and by exchanging, renting, and handing overused clothing, or sewing it themselves. When their clothes serve them off, before tossing it in textile waste bins or mixed municipal waste, they try to get rid of them in a sustainable way, where reuse or donation is most present. They are aware of the negative effects of fast fashion and, above all, they feel a social responsibility for the employees of this industry. They feel helpless when engaging in alternative clothing practices (used, borrowed, or exchanged), as both the tempting offer and society are pushing them to constantly satisfy the need for new fast fashion clothing. They feel prejudiced towards used clothes when they do not know the previous users, and the clothing rental is close to them especially for rare and festive occasions. Discussion and conclusion: The results of the study in comparison with other Slovenian and foreign studies with a similar socio-political system indicate a fairly universal phenomenon of clothing shopping habits and experiences with used clothing. The advantage of the study is in capturing a wide range of health and societal aspects of fast fashion through the awareness, knowledge, and beliefs of individual Slovenian adolescents. The study additionally highlights the helplessness and sense of nonsense individuals may experience when being aware of the fast fashion problematics but at the same time remaining almost without any other alternative to fast fashion to choose from. In the end, the study also makes some suggestions for empowering the wider society in knowledge and action against fast fashion problematic