Choli and Kanjari; an anlaysis of a small textile collection

This paper begins an investigation into, the practical, social, spiritual and protective roles of decorated textiles, in the Choli and Kanjari blouses of Gujarat with a detailed analysis of one item to begin to establish a model for the analysis of the items in collection of more than thirty garments and embroidered garment fragments brought from India in the early 1990’s. The discussion focuses on role of stitch and symbol in the garments worn by the women of various peoples of the craft villages around Bhuj, particularly the nomadic Rabari. The investigation of materials and techniques used in the making of a bodice is recorded and the stitches used are analysed. Patterns and methods used in the construction are included. Examples of the different ways stitches are worked add to the understanding of the decoration. This paper provides an insight into way of life that held stitch and stitching in high regard. It demonstrates how the practice of making textiles can form an understanding and communication link between people with very different backgrounds and experience of life. It raises questions about the changes that have taken place in the last 20 years and is it possible to promote a better understanding of the place of stitched textiles in the modern world. Albeit that this last point is a constantly recurring question