Study of Cotton Fabric Dyeing Process With Some Mordant Methods By Using Gambier (Uncaria gambir Roxb) Extract

Natural dye that was re-extracted from raw gambier is used to dye cotton fabrics. Aluminum sulfate, calcium oxide, and ferrous sulfate were used as mordants. Dyeing had used four different mordant methods which namely pre, simultaneous, post, and combined (pre and post) mordant. The chemical components in dry gambier extract were tested by using X Ray-Diffraction. The dyed cotton fabrics were evaluated by their color strength (K/S), color difference values (L*, a*, and b*), fastness to washing, rubbing and light. The results have shown that the main components of gambier were anhydrous catechins, catechins, and pyrocatechol. The use of post mordant and combined mordant methods with calcium oxide mordant had produced higher color strength (K/S) than others. The fastness to washing and rubbing values were in a range from good to excellent, while the average of the fastness to light was in a range from moderate to good. The amount of mordant metal that was bound to the fabric was between 15-40%