Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave propagation, breaking, runup and overtopping

A one-dimensional hybrid numerical model is presented of a shallow-water flume with an incorporated piston paddle. The hybrid model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and the nonlinear shallow water equations. It is suitable for breaking and non-breaking waves and requires only two adjustable parameters: a friction coefficient and a wave breaking parameter. The applicability of the model is demonstrated by simulating laboratory experiments of solitary waves involving runup at a plane beach and overtopping of a laboratory seawall. The predicted free surface profiles, maximum runup and overtopping volumes agree very well with the measured values