Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not always agree with this model result, thus, understanding the mechanisms seems essential. To this end, the global analysis technique, originally developed to describe the long term behavior of bars (saturation of the bar growth), is also applied here to the initial stage of the bar evolution (formation of the bars). As a result, rip channels grow slower for larger wave angle because of the weakening of the instability mechanism -that only depends on the cross-shore current- rather than the increase of the damping due to the dif...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to produce th...
Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend...
The process of formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight, sandy coast is examin...
The process of formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight, sandy coast is examin...
A nonlinear numerical model based on a wave- and depth-averaged shallow water equation solver with w...
We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to demonstrate that time-varying forcing, in particular the t...
The formation of crescentic bars from self-organization of an initially straight shore-parallel bar ...
International audienceBreaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straig...
International audienceBreaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straig...
Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to th...
Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to th...
Rip currents are narrow and intense, offshore directed flows in the nearshore zone. A rip current is...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to produce th...
Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend...
The process of formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight, sandy coast is examin...
The process of formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight, sandy coast is examin...
A nonlinear numerical model based on a wave- and depth-averaged shallow water equation solver with w...
We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to demonstrate that time-varying forcing, in particular the t...
The formation of crescentic bars from self-organization of an initially straight shore-parallel bar ...
International audienceBreaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straig...
International audienceBreaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straig...
Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to th...
Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to th...
Rip currents are narrow and intense, offshore directed flows in the nearshore zone. A rip current is...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
Field observations indicate that both wave conditions and sediment characteristics exert the control...
The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to produce th...