Archeological finds of buckles from the 12th to the 17th century in Croatia

U radu se obrađuju arheološki nalazi kopča koji potječu s prostora Republike Hrvatske. Iz literature su prikupljeni podatci o pojedinim kopčama kako bi se dobio tipološki pregled, a uzet je vremenski okvir od 12. do 17. stoljeća. Od 12. do 17. stoljeća na prostoru današnje Republike Hrvatske izmijenile su se brojne vlasti, društvena struktura i stanovništvo što je utjecalo na gospodarske promjene, a time posredno na način odijevanja i modu čiji su mali dio kopče ovdje obrađene. U radu se uz arheološke nalaze kopča donose i podatci iz pisanih izvora o ovoj kategoriji utilitarno-ukrasnih predmeta te likovni prikazi pomoću koji se želi predočiti odijevanje toga vremena i kopče unutar konteksta nošnje. Kopče su podijeljene na četiri osnovne kategorije: jednodijelne, dvodijelne, kopče s pločicom/okovom i pafte, a nakon toga su razvrstane u različite tipove, koji se potom dalje razvrstavaju na temelju određenih posebnosti u formi. Uz samostalne primjerke kopča obrađuju se i nalazi pojasnih garnitura. Kopče čine dio nošnje i široke su primjene, a za određivanje njihove namjene uvelike je pomogao njihov arheološki kontekst jer većina obrađenih nalaza potječe iz grobnih cjelina (razvijenog i kasnog srednjeg vijeka te ranoga novog vijeka). U radu se donosi njihova kronologija bazirana na temelju arheoloških nalaza, kao i tipoloških analogija. U radu se donosi i kratki pregled saznanja o primjeni kopča na temelju navedene arheološke građe: kopče obuće, pojasne kopče, kopče plašta/ogrtača, itd.This paper researches the archaeological findings of buckles originating from the territory of the Republic of Croatia. Data on individual buckles were collected from the literature in order to provide a typological overview for the period between the 12th and the 17th century. Throughout the named period many authorities, social structures and population changed on the territory of the present-day Republic of Croatia. Those processes influenced economic changes, thereby indirectly influencing the way of clothing and fashion. However, the buckles covered in this paper represent small portion of it. In addition to the archaeological findings, the paper also contains data from written sources regarding this category of utilitarian ornamental objects, as well as visual representations by which the clothing of the given period and the buckles within the context of the traditional costumes are to be presented. The buckles are divided into four basic categories: single frame, double frame, buckles with plate and paftas which are further on categorized into different types, and are nevertheless further specified based on certain particularities in form. In addition to the individual specimens, the belt sets are also analyzed. Buckles are part of the costume and are of wide application, whereas their archaeological context has greatly assisted in determining their purpose, since most of the processed findings originate from burial sites (High and Late Middle Ages and Early Modern period). The paper presents their chronology based on archaeological finds as well as typological analogies. The paper also provides a brief overview of the usage of buckles based on the archaeological material mentioned: shoe buckles, belt buckles, mantle/cloak buckles, etc