PHYSICAL AGING OF EMULSIONS CONTAINING COATED TIO2-NANOPARTICLES: INTERACTION BETWEEN NANOPARTICLES AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

International audienceTiO2-nanoparticles (NPs) are usually added to cosmetic emulsions because they procure a good UV-protection1. In this study, two natures of NPs surfaces were explored: a hydrophilic silica-coated particle and a hydrophobic one covered with a large organic coating. During emulsion aging and depending on their surfacenature and properties, NPs might interact with the formula by inducing adsorption of formula’s compounds2 or by undergoingcoatings damages. These phenomenamay change the nanoparticle surface properties, their behavior in emulsion, and finally, led to the emulsionsdestabilization. The impact of TiO2-NP surfaces on the physical aging of emulsions was here studied.For this purpose, threeemulsions were formulated differing only by the presence and type of NPs: one NP-free as blank, and two containing hydrophilic and hydrophobic commercial TiO2-NPs, respectively.The emulsification process was optimized to obtain a blank emulsion physically stable and to improve the NPs dispersions. Effects of coatings on fresh emulsions were depicted on the micro and macro scales by several physico-chemical methods.Then, emulsions physical evolutions onnormal or accelerate aging conditionswere monitored.Droplets sizes were similar between the three fresh emulsions, whereas slight differences in term of networksorganization highlighted the impact of the coating nature on the emulsion microstructure. However, initial emulsions properties looked similar by applying rheological and textural analyses. Although the blank emulsion and the one with hydrophilic NPs remained similar after the aging step, the microstructure of the emulsion with hydrophobic NPsquickly evolved: aggregates of both droplets and NPs made the formula less homogeneous. As will be illustrated, this evolution in term of colloids sizes strongly affects the functional properties, as viscosity, consistency or spreading quality of this aged emulsion. These results revealed the impact of coating nature in this kind of complex media. Afterinnovative NPs extractions3 from fresh and aged formulae, their surfaces were characterized. By an original physico-chemical approach, quick surface modifications appeared and changed the surface charges and wettability of particles. These variations might cause the differences in term of stability between emulsions.(1) Serpone, N.; Dondi, D.; Albini, A. Inorganica Chim. Acta2007, 360 (3), 794–802.(2) Rossano, M.; Hucher, N.; Picard, C.; Colleta, D.; Le Foll, F.; Grisel, M. Int. J. Pharm.2014, 461 (1-2), 89–96.(3) Rossano, M. Ph.D thesis: Utilisation des nanoparticules de dioxyde de titane dans les émulsions cosmétiques : impact sur la santé humaine et l’environnement, Université du Havre: Le Havre, 2014