Propagation of nonlinear waves passing over submerged step

International audienceNonlinear water waves have been studied for decades. However, numeric models have always been validated with punctual measurements. In this study we measure the surface deformation of water waves with the Fourier Transform Profilometry (FTP) technique, obtaining a complete space-time resolved field. This permits to separate free and bound waves in the shallow water region, revealing the near resonant interaction between those components. When we change the absorbing beach by a reflecting wall at the end of the channel, we observe an interesting resonance for fixed frequencies. At the resonant frequencies, the system shows a chaotic behavior