Master of Arts

thesisThe problem of this thesis is to investigate the trends and characteristics of Utah pioneer dress from 1947 to 1875. It attempts to find out in what particulars Utah pioneer dress followed the general lines and characteristics of current fashion, and why; to find out in what particulars Utah pioneer dress differed from these, and why; to find out what additions were made to current fashion by Utah pioneer dress, and why. The thesis is limited to the discussion of dresses, (including bodices and skirts) and underwear. This thesis, based on data recorded in the Utah pioneer Costume and Manners Research Project, attempts to establish and define the relation of Utah pioneer dress to the general development of costume in the United States. For purposes of discussion, the analysis was divided into five arbitrary periods; the pre-1847 period; the 1847-1850 period; the 1850-1875 period. The findings of this thesis may be considered as a basis for future and more exhaustive study of the materials on Utah pioneer costume. The conclusions reached, on the basis of the chosen data, are as follows: I. Utah pioneer dress, from 1847 to 1875, followed the general lines and characteristics of current fashion, because the women of Utah had a normal, healthy interest in dress and were not restricted to any distinctive costume. II. Utah pioneer dress differed from the general lines and characterists of current fashion in certain details. A. In the period 1847-1850, pioneer dress was simple in out and trimmings were omitted, because materials were scarce and transportation costs of new materials were excessive. The explanation advanced is that the pioneer woman was so occupied with the struggle to found a home in the wilderness, that the making of all clothing was reduced to a minimum. B. In the period 1850-1860, pioneer dress suffered from the same restrictions as in the three preceding years; the thousands of European converts who arrived to help colonize the new land added little to pioneer fashions beyond the detail of fine embroidery and needlework. C. In the period 1860-1869, pioneer dress began to show some elaboration. This was explained by the advent of the sewing machine, by the access to fashion magazines, and by better living conditions. D. In the period 1869-1875, the dress of Utah women followed fairly closely current fashions because the transcontinental railway brought promptly and economically the materials, and styles needed for fashionable attire. III. The additions made by the Utah pioneer woman to current fashion were, perhaps, the warm quilted petticoat and the Deseret Costume, for field wear