Sociological, Economical and Political Contexts in Fashion

Tema ovoga rada su sociološki, ekonomski i politički konteksti u modi. Radu se pristupa na povijesno teorijski način interdisciplinarnim pregledom literature i ključnih tekstova. U tu svrhu, teorijski se određuje moda kao disciplina, navodi se razlika između pojmova moda i odjeća, te pojmova moda i stil. Također, moda se sagledava kao ciklus, a govori se i o njezinoj distribuciji putem modnih procesa. Nadalje, u radu se analizira značenje mode kroz dva razdoblja; razdoblje modernizma i razdoblje postmodernizma. Moda je u doba modernizma okarakterizirana pojavom potrošačkog društva i definira ju pojam „novosti”. Sagledava se utjecaj mode na društvo kroz dva temeljna teksta; „Teorija dokoličarske klase” autora Thorsteina Veblena i „Filozofija mode” autora Georga Simmela. Nastavno na modernizam, moda se sagledava i u doba postmodernizma i to kroz radove autora Gillesa Lipovetskog i Jeana Baudrillarda. Govori se i o semiotičkom čitanju mode kroz analizu djela „Sistem mode” autora Rolanda Barthesa gdje se moda sagledava kao znak. I na kraju, definira se i pojam modne fotografije, primarno kroz radove u talijanskom izdanju časopisa „Vogue“.The subject of this paper is the sociological, economic and political context in fashion. The approach is based on a historical, theoretical and interdisciplinary review of literature and key texts. To this end, fashion is defined as a discipline in theory, with explanation of the difference between the terms of fashion and clothing, and the concepts of fashion and style. Also, fashion is perceived as a cycle with its distribution through fashion processes. Furthermore, the paper analyses fashion in two periods, modernism and postmodernism. Fashion in the era of modernism is characterised by the emergence of a consumer society and it is defined by the term “novelty”. The influence of fashion on the society is regarded through two influential texts, "The theory of the Leisure class" by Thorstein Veblen and the "Philosophy of Fashion" by George Simmel. Following modernism, fashion is also seen in the era of postmodernism, through works of Gilles Lipovetsky and Jean Baudrillard. Furthermore, the paper consists explains fashion in semiotic sense, reading through analysis of "System Mode" by Roland Barthes, where fashion is perceived as a sign. In the end, the concept of fashion photography is defined, primarily through works in the Italian edition of "Vogue" magazine