Depth inversion for nonlinear waves shoaling over a barred-beach 1

ABSTRACT: Characteristics of periodic wave shoaling over a barred-beach are calculated in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank. Variations of wave elevation, slopes, height, asymmetry, and celerity are discussed. Over and beyond the bar, classical highly nonlinear decomposition phenomena occur in a modulation region (MR); in shallower water, shoaling reoccurs. Depth inversion algorithms developed and calibrated for mild slopes are applied to the barred-beach. Expectedly, errors on depth prediction occur in the MR; suggestions for improvements are made