KARLOVY VARY INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 2003 There's not a film festival in the world with more die-hard devotees than the Karlovy Vary. Kids backpack their way to this health spa, sleep in the parks if need be, and line up early in the morning to book tickets for the 300-odd films in 20 sections screened in 12 venues. In addition, there are the Cultural Events, which begin at noon and stretch until midnight. New hotels and restaurants in restored buildings welcome ever more guests. If you take the waters at this legendary spa with its hot springs, you can cut the taste later with an Oplatky sugar-wafer or settle your belly with a shot of Becherovka on the side. Receptions in the Grand Hotel Pupp are known to linger until dawn. A quaint te...