A comparison of conventional and ultrasonic seams in swimwear

Ultrasonic welding technology is a relatively new technology in apparel construction, this research forms part of a study to assess its effectiveness as a joining technology that can be used in ladies swimwear. The ultimate aim was to determine whether the ultrasonic welding joining technique could be successfully used in assembling ladies swimwear garments, comprising only synthetic fibres, namely polyester/Lycra, polyamide/Lycra, polyamide/Lycra power-net and polyamide/Lycra mesh warp knitted fabrics. These specific swimwear fabrics were selected since they comprise 100% thermoplastic synthetic fibres, considered ideal for ultrasonic welding. This study essentially compares and contrasts the performance of two seam joining techniques: namely conventional sewing and ultrasonic welding, in terms of seam strength, when used in the above mentioned four fabrics. Conventionally sewn and ultrasonically welded seams were produced, straight and curved, in both the wale and course directions of the fabrics. The conventionally sewn seams were produced using two sewing machines; namely an overlocker, also known as a mock safety sewing machine, and a cover seam machines. All conventionally sewn seams were stitched and tested under similar conditions. The ultrasonic welded seams were produced using three different wheels, a Medium Male Knurled pattern wheel, a Staggered Triple Stitch pattern wheel and a Single Stitch pattern wheel. The amplitude and speed of the welding machine, during the ultrasonic seaming, were kept constant, except when welding the polyamide/Lycra power-net and the polyamide/Lycra mesh fabrics when the pressure had to be drastically reduced in order to avoid excessively softened seams. The results of the study are presented in the form of line charts, scatter charts and tables. The ultrasonic welded seams, joined with the Medium Male Knurled wheel, exhibited surface waviness, as opposed to those joined with the Staggered Triple Stitch wheel which were smooth. It was found that, in terms of seam strength, the ultrasonic seams produced with the Single Stitch and Medium Male Knurled pattern wheels out performed those produced with the Staggered Triple Stitch wheels. The polyester/Lycra fabric was found easier to handle during the ultrasonic seaming process than the polyamide/Lycra fabric, although the strength of the ultrasonic seams in the polyester/Lycra fabric did not differ consistently from those of the polyamide/Lycra fabric. It was found that the conventional sewn seams were consistently stronger, and had a better appearance, than the ultrasonic welded seams. Although some promising results were obtained, in terms of the strength of the ultrasonic welded seams, the results overall were far too variable, inconsistent and unsatisfactory for this technique of seaming to be recommended at this stage for any of the swimwear fabrics covered. Further, more in depth, studies are required in order to gain a better understating of the effect of the various ultrasonic seaming parameters, as well as fabric parameters on ultrasonic seam strength and consistency