On the Initial Movement of Sediment Particles Induced by Wave Action

This paper is concerned with the initial movement of sediment particles on horizontal bottoms under wave action. In order to obtain the essential relationship between the initial movement of a sediment particle and wave characteristics, a theoretical consideration is made in the same manner as the theoretical treatment of critical tractive force in open channel by applying the theory of oscillatory laminar boundary layer. In addition, laboratory experiments are also made to examine the theoretical results. The results of the theory indicate that the initial movement is expressed in terms of three dimensionless quantities