16th Century Damask Fabric from the Island of Lopud Burse - Pattern, Technical Analysis and Conservation-Restoration Treatment

U ovom radu obrađena je problematika definicije damasta i razvoj uzoraka. Poseban naglasak stavljen je na talijanske damaste i njihove uzorke, a sve u svrhu usporedbe talijanskih damasta pronađenih u Hrvatskoj s damastom pronađenim na bursi u Šunju na otoku Lopudu. Upravo je analiza uzorka pomogla u dataciji te tkanine, a samim time i cijelog predmeta. Damasti, uz brokate i baršune, spadaju u grupu najdragocjenijih tkanina. Za njihovu izradu primarno je korištena svila koja je nerijetko obogaćivana pozlaćenim ili posrebrenim nitima, ali se ponekad ona zamjenjuje lanom ili pamukom kako bi se dobila jeftinija tkanina.1 Damasti su široko primjenjivani pa ih je tako lako pronaći na odjevnim predmetima, namještaju, dekorima, ali i među stolnjacima ili ubrusima.This paper deals with the problem of damask definiton and development of its patter. A special emphasis was placed on Italian damasks and their patterns, all for the purpose of comparing Italian damasks found in Croatia with the damask found on the burse from Šunj on the island of Lopud. It was the pattern analysis that helped with the datation of the fabric and the whole object. Damasks, along with the brocades and velvets, belong to the group of the most precious fabrics. Primarily they are silk fabrics which are often enriched with gold and silver or cheapend with linen or cotton. Damasks are widely used so it is easy to find them on garments, furniture, decorations, but also on tableclothsand napkins