Archaeological textile research using interdisciplinary methods

Tekstilės tyrimus sudaro pluošto - morfologinės struktūros tyrimas mikroskopu, cheminė ir infraraudonojo spektro molekulinė absorbcinė spektrinė analizė; pluošto kilmės, pynimo nustatymas ir grafinis pavaizdavimas; dažiklių tyrimas - mikrocheminė analizė ir plonasluoksnė chromatografija; siūlų analizė; naudotų audimo staklių nustatymas bei drabužių rekonstrukcijos.The methodology for the archaeological textile research was chosen on the basis of a questionnaire prepared by the International Centre for the Study of Ancient Textiles (CIETA) (Реставрация, 1979, 25-26). The main points of the textile research in Lithuania were based on this questionnaire and consisted of weave patterns, fibre structure; microscopic and microchemical fibre analysis, loom type and thread dye (colorant analysis) determination, origin evaluation, and artefact dating. Textile fragments found in Lithuanian territory are analyzed in the laboratories of the National Museum of Lithuania (Restoration Centre) and the Lithuanian Art Museum (Pranas Gudynas Restoration Centre). The fabric fibres are identified in these laboratories through a microscope analysis of their morphological structure: fibre appearance, thickness, and length. When fibre is badly damaged and its morphological structure is not clear, a chemical analysis is conducted, which determines whether it is cellulose or proteinous. Chemists currently use a Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectrometer to perform an infrared spectrum molecular absorption spectral analysis (at the Restoration Centre of the National Museum of Lithuania). In order to identify the textile colorants used in Lithuanian territory, the dyes are identified using a microchemical qualitative and chromatographic analysis. Both are conducted at the aforementioned two laboratories. The most suitable reference for the fabrics found in Lithuania is the textile typology created by Jerzy Maik (Maik, 1988, 29). The typology created by L. Bender-Jørgensen is used for comparison (Bender- Jørgensen, 2000,13-15). My own typology is based on Maik's due to its closeness to the specific features of Lithuanian textiles