High-order Boussinesq-type model for integrated nearshore dynamics

A two-dimensional high-order Boussinesq-type model was derived to simulate wave propagation and relevant processes in the nearshore zone. Because of its enhanced nonlinear character, the model can describe more accurately the amplitude dispersion compared to its weakly nonlinear counterpart. Extension to the surf zone was accomplished using the eddy-viscosity concept for simulating breaking waves. Swash-zone dynamics were simulated by applying a modified narrow-slot technique. Bottom friction and subgrid turbulent mixing were also incorporated. The model can estimate the wave-induced current field, including the undertow effect. The numerical model relied on a generalized multistep predictor-corrector scheme, and the waves were generated using the source function method. Both the one-horizontal-dimensional (1DH) and two-horizontal-dimensional (2DH) versions were validated against a variety of experimental tests, including regular and irregular wave propagation and breaking on plane beaches and submerged shoals. Breaking and run-up of a solitary wave were also modeled. Furthermore, a wave overtopping test was also included. Oblique long-crested irregular wave incidence and a test including a rip channel were simulated to check the model's performance. The agreement, in general, is satisfactory, and most of the nearshore phenomena were accurately reproduced