Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America (1994) [Entire]

Preface 7 Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Fiber and Garment Featured Paper: Ancient Near Eastern Fibers and the Reshaping of European Clothing Elizabeth J. W. Barber 9 Wreath and Cap to Veil and Apron: American Modification of a Slavic Ritual Patricia Williams 19 Panel: Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa Akwete-Igbo Weavers as Entrepreneurs and Innovators at the Turn of the Century Lisa Aronson 31 What’s in a Name: The Domestication of Factory Produced Wax Textiles in Cote d’Ivoire Kathleen E. Bickford 39 Technology and Change: The Incorporation of Synthetic Dye Techniques in Abeokuta, Southwestern Nigeria Judith Byfield 45 The Transformation of Men into Masquerades and Indian Madras into Masquerade Cloth in Buguma, Nigeria Elisha P. Renne and Joanne B. Eicher 53 Discussant: Discussion of “Textile Transformations and Cultural Continuities in West Africa” Christopher B. Steiner 63 Foreign Contact in the Pacific Rim The Conversion of Chinese Court Robes into Japanese Festival Hangings Gloria Granz Gonick 67 Micronesian Textiles in Transition: The Woven Tol of Kosrae Ann Deegan and Ross Cordy 81 Bolong-Bolong and Tirtanadi: An Unknown Group of Balinese Textiles Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff and Monika Palm-Nadolny 93 Green Labels with Golden Elephants: Western European Printed Cottons for Malaysia and Indonesia Frieda Sorber 105 Looking to the Past, Looking to the Future: Two Contemporary Approaches Continuity of Culture: A Reenactor’s Goal Elizabeth McClure 117 The Influence of Computer Technologies on Contemporary Woven Fiber Art Cynthia Schira 127 Featured Paper: Contact, Crossover, Continuity: The Emergence and Development of the Two Basic Lace Techniques Santina Levey and Milton Sonday 139 Panel: New Meanings, Borrowed Forms: Flux and Influx in the Textile Traditions of Flores, Indonesia Supplementary Weft on an “Ikat” Isle: The Weaving Communities of Northwestern Flores Roy W. Hamilton 147 The “Severed Shroud”: Local and Imported Textiles in the Mortuary Rites of an Indonesian People Penelope Graham 159 From the Ancestors or the Portuguese: Exotic Textiles in Flores and the Solor Archipelago (abstract only) Robyn Maxwell 167 Cloth as Marriage Gifts. Change in Exchange among the Lio of Flores Willemijn de Jong 169 Crossover: Motifs Transformed Byzantine Influences along the Silk Route: Central Asian Silks Transformed Anna Maria Muthesius 181 The Pomegranate Pattern in Italian Renaissance Textiles: Origins and Influence Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 193 Ottoman Silks and Their Legacy (abstract only) Diane Mott 205 The Assimilation of European Designs into Twentieth Century Indian Saris Linda Lynton 207 Continuity: Influence of the Marketplace Raphael’s Acts of the Apostles Tapestries: The Birth of the Tapestry Reproduction System Marjorie Durko Puryear 217 Market Effects on the Design and Construction of Carpets in the Milas Region of Southwestern Turkey, 1963–1993 Charlotte A. Jirousek 229 Traditional Techniques in New Settings Featured Paper: Charmingly Quaint and Still Modern: The Paradox of Colonial Revival Needlework in America, 1875–1940 Beverly Gordon 241 From Bohemian to Bourgeois: American Batik in the Early Twentieth Century Nicola J. Shilliam 253 New Twist on Shibori: How an Old Tradition Survives in the New World When Japanese Wooden Poles are Replaced by American PVC Pipes Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada 265 Video: Paj Ntaub: Textile Techniques of the Hmong (video script) Joyce Smith 271 Panel: Fashioning Identity: Appropriation and Creativity in Pre-Columbian and Contemporary Andean Cloth Anni Albers: Pre-Columbian Resonances, The Significance of Pre-Columbian Art in Her Textiles and Writings Virginia Gardner Troy 281 Ancient Andean Headgear: Medium and Measure of Cultural Identity Niki R. Clark and Amy Oakland Rodman 293 Paracas Cavernas, Paracas Necropolis, and Ocucaje: Looking at Appropriation and Identity with Only Material Remains Ann Peters 305 Dressing the Part: Indigenous Costume as Political and Cultural Discourse in Peru Katharine E. Seibold 319 Ethnic Artists and the Appropriation of Fashion: Embroidery and Identity in the Colca Valley, Peru Blenda Femenias 331 (Re-)Fashioning Identity: Late Twentieth-Century Transformations in Dress and Society in Bolivia Elayne Zorn 343 Appendix: Roster of Participants at the 1994 Symposium 35