A critical review of measurement techniques in coastal hydraulics

Includes bibliographies.This thesis reviews measurement techniques in the field of coastal hydraulics. Techniques of wave measurement are studied in detail 1 and the analysis of wave measurements is then dealt with. Particular attention is paid to the analysis of one-dimensional wave energy spectra. Two computer programs were adapted for use on a microcomputer for the analysis of these spectra by the autocorrelation and the Fast Fourier Transform techniques. Experiments were conducted to determine the effect of input parameters on the analysed spectrum; the sensitivity of the one-dimensional wave energy spectrum to the number of data points, the sampling interval' and the maximum lag number (for autocorrelation analysis), is illustrated. Guidelines and examples are included for the selection of appropriate parameters