The use of abrasive substances in the modeling of cosmetic scrub

Master Thesis by Ainė Olišauskytė “The use of abrasive substances in the modeling of cosmetic scrub “. Scientific supervisor doc. Dr. G. Kasparavičienė ;Lithuanian University of Health Sciences, Medical Academy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical Technology and Social Pharmacy Department. Kaunas 2018. The aim of research: to make cosmetic skin scrubs with natural abrasive substances, to evaluate their quality and sensory properties. The tasks of research: to prepare scrubs with natural abrasive substances based on the analysis of scientific literature, to evaluate the quality of scrubs and compare the results with the recommendations of the cosmetics, evaluate the sensory properties of scrubs by means of survey. The method:evaluation of the quality of scrubs is made with physical research: the determination of the natural abrasive substances particle size by sieve method, determination of the pH value, viscosimetry, texture analysis, foam test, evaluation of sensory properties by questionnaire survey method. The results: 9 scrubs with different bases - cream, gel xanthan gum and gel carbopol, combined with natural abrasive materials – crushed apricot pit particles, pink clay, white clay and amber dust were formulated. Scrubs with the initial composition were unstable and had insufficient foaming properties, so the composition was supplemented with 1% 2-phenoxy ethanol and 2% cocamide betaine. After analyzing the size of the particles of abrasive substances, pH and viscosity, the results were found to match the recommended particle size, pH and viscosity limits. After analyzing the texture, it was determined the carbopol gel base scrubs were found to be the hardest, thickest and stickiest, cream base scrubs – the most resistant to bursting. After evaluating the sensory properties, it was found that cream base scrubs were most liked by their ability to leave a pleasant feeling after the use of scrubs, gel xanthan gum base scrubs showed good scrubbing and efficacy properties and gel carbopol based scrubs were estimated good for their texture, scrubbing or generally were suitable for use. Conclusions: scrubs are good in quality, comply with the recommended quality criteria for cosmetic products, the highest quality scrub-like function was xanthan gum base and crushed apricot pits scrub, the cream-based scrub with crushed apricot pit particles was generally best evaluated scrub